How To: Dyno!
By Tino Fiumara
A dyno is a large dynamic movement between holds and is an essential movement in climbing. Dyno-ing is often the only option when the hold is too far away to do statically or because trying to do a large move statically, especially in steeper terrain, is a waste of energy. So, how do you dyno? Let’s get started!
First off, how far is it between the holds we are on and the holds we are going to? Often it’s not that far to the target hold when we actually fully extend our legs and arms.
The best way to start is just by practicing what it feels like to fully extend on your tippy toes. Go to a slightly over-hanging wall and locate a good starting jug and some good footholds a few feet below the jug. Grab the holds and sink down as far as you can and practice lowering yourself as far as your arms will let you – this is “the drop”. Your “bottom” will get pretty close to your heels and your hands will be above your shoulders. Try rocking in this position towards and away from the hold you are trying to get to while keeping your arms as long as you can to feel out the directionality and force of the momentum you are going to need.
From that low position, lever yourself into a full stand-up by extending your legs and not releasing the start holds until your legs are fully extended and your hands are below your chest . Don’t worry about grabbing a target, just practice standing up as tall as you can on those feet and releasing your hand(s) and extending your arms as high as you can. This coordination will take a few tries before it gets comfortable. You will be surprised how far you can actually reach before you need to leave your feet!
The final step. Do the same drop and launch and now grab the farthest hold away that you can. Now drop and launch and grab the same target hold but focus on pushing harder with your legs so your feet lift off of the foot holds.
As your jumps get larger it is important to aim a little above the actual target hold so that you have time to close your hand fully and latch it. Focus on closing that hand (or hands) on the target hold as fast as possible.
The One-handed Catch Exercise: A great way to improve the speed of your latch is by finding two good holds on the wall about a foot apart. Pull onto the wall using both hands with one hand on one of those good holds. Take your other hand off of the wall and now practice pulling in on that one hand until your body motion stops, releasing the one hold and grabbing the other.
Dynos by nature are low percentage moves, meaning you will not always get them. It is important to address the landing. Make sure the landing zone is clear and take notice if there is a height change in the pads or flooring. We are not gymnasts, so we do not need to “stick a landing” standing. There is a lot of momentum at play, so it is best to come down on your feet and roll through the landing like a sideways tumblesault. Keep your head and arms tucked in so as to protect your neck, wrists, and elbows.