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Setters’ Favorite New Lead Wall Routes

By Tino Fiumara

We just finished the new Lead Wall reset, resulting in 37 routes from 5.9 to 5.13b, with the majority of climbing in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. We’ve introduced colored volumes for Yellow and Blue – meaning that a Yellow volume is only for Yellow routes, etc.

The Lead Wall reset is always a big undertaking and we get a lot of questions from members and onlookers about the thought and energy that goes into creating all of these new routes. Our inspiration changes from route to route, but we always have specific goal for the routes and in the end we always end up with a couple of favorites. We checked in with our setters and asked them which were their favorites and why. Hopefully their thoughts inspire you to get on them all!

Henry Fitts – Routesetter and Competitive Youth Team Coach – Pink 5.10 on Anchor 1 – This one starts off steep in the beginning then allows a lot of restful positions to be found in the corner. The side to side movement, secure clipping positions, and the large slopey holds provide for some really playful climbing. It’s bound to be a crowd favorite.

Becca Soule – Routesetter and Program Lead – Blue 5.11 on Anchor 4 – This climb really incites the climber into some specific body positions that require full engagement of the heel and core. There are a large variety of holds for the climber to experience so you can’t just be good on a certain type of hold. You’ll find slopers and pinches down low, finger buckets and rounded jugs through the middle, and then pinches and crimps on the final headwall up high.

Matty Zane – Routesetter, Adult Team Coach, Competitive Youth Team Head Coach  Black 5.12 on Anchor 5 – This crimpy route has the feeling of classic outdoor route-climbing. It climbs point-to-point and makes you earn the rests. The beginning has some technical and sequential bouldering to gain the first rest below the steep wall. It is resistant and will eat away at your endurance the closer you get to the top. The chains are guarded by an uber-classic exit move…not to be missed…until you do.

Tino Fiumara – Minister of Routesetting – Pink 5.10 on Anchor 3 – This route has decisive movement that requires you to travel fully on both sides of the arete. The angles allow for some open handed holds that makeyou really use the lean of the wall to stay in tension, but you’ll have to be mindful of your feet so they don’t skate away. There are two transitions near the top that make you feel airy and exposed, something that I really enjoy about rope climbing. And it’s pink…so it’s just a fun color to climb on!

We’d love to know which routes are your favorites, too! Email us or let us know in person!

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